The rest like USB power adaptor, Raspberry Pi Zero W, SD card and all the necessary cables I conveniently had lying around.
Soldering the Pi Zero
The LED strip came with two connectors: 1 with red and white cables for the power supply, and one with red, white and green cable. From the connector with the 3 cables I soldered the green one to pin #12 (GPIO18) and the white one to pin #6 (GND). The red one I cut off so it could not come in the way. I also soldered a 120 ohm resistor in between the green cable and pin #12. In some tutorials I read that they used a 100 ohm resistor, but I just had 82 ohm and 120 ohm resistors around so I went for the 120 ohm.
Some other tutorials also mention a level shifter, as the raspi works with 3.3V but the LED strip with 5V . Even others use an arduino for that purpose. For me the setup pictured below worked just with the resistor.
At first, I thought I cut the LED strip and then solder the corners back together. But I saw many builds on the internet where they just bent the strip. This obviously saves lots of work.
Pi Zero Software
Installation of Hyperion on a Raspberry Pi is easiest if you just download the HyperBian image. It is a ready to use image for your Raspberry Pi. I added the ssh configuration plus the wifi setup so once I put the sd card into the zero and booted it up, I could access the Hyperion web interface on port 8090 of zero’s IP address.
I played around in the configuration, for example I set the RGB byte order to GRB and set the LED number in the LED layout section.
Under “Capturing Hardware” I checked the “Enable USB capture” check box. Apart from that I can’t really remember changing anything from the default setup. Pretty straightforward!
At work there was a problem with a tool that archives documents. Whenever that tool failed doing its task it would write an error code into a database table.
So some unfortunate user had to check that table for that error code about three times a day, would open that document in Word, save it and update the error code.
I got the order to write a program to automate the whole process. I used c#/.NET for the whole thing. The Task Scheduler would call this program every five minutes and would write its findings into a log.
Because I tested it I was pretty confident it would work smoothly. But what happened now was this: I would check the log regularly if my program picked up the wrong documents and corrected it. Instead of somebody checking the database for errors I would now check the log for the error indications!
So I wrote a second program – again in c#. It would check the log file and if it detected that the tool picked up and fixed a defect document it would then blink the DigiSpark‘s RGB led and turn from green to red. For this I used DigiStump’s DigiRgb.exe basically the same way I used it in my Minecraft mod.
I love it: It saves me a big amount of time of checking a log for something that hardly ever happens. Plus: It looks really cool on my desk 🙂
DigiSpark indicating that all is good. If it detects an error log it blinks red ten times and then stays red until manually reset.
The other day I bought myself a USB bluetooth dongle for my HP laptop and a HC-05 bluetooth adapter for the Arduino.
When I connected the dongle to my laptop running Windows 8 it appeared like it would install the default drivers for it. I connected the HC-05 to an Arduino and I could locate it from my laptop. I could even pair the dongle with the adapter. (Default code: 1234.)
HC-05 bluetooth module
But when checking the HC-05 in Windows’ device manager its status would say “Offline”. It took me several hours of googling until I came across a suggestion by another user that bought the same dongle on amazon: I installed the Toshiba Bluetooth Stack! Even though it says it’s only for toshiba laptops it worked on my HP like a charm.
I also had a HC-06 adapter lying around. Optically they look very similar. As far as I know HC-05 can work as master or slave whereas HC-06 is slave only. If you use them as slaves you can use either of them using the same pins. HC-05 came up under COM40 and HC-06 identifies itself as “linvor” under COM41. Continue reading →
Years ago I bought myself an IR remote for my Nikon D40. That worked ok, but of course I wanted to build my own using a Digispark.
There’s lots of tutorials for IR remotes out there, like LuckyLarry’s. I then later came across the nikonIrControl library which basically allows you to trigger a photo with a single line of code! Best of it is this library will work for every camera supported by ML-L1 and ML-L3 such as D40, D40X, D50, D60, D70, D70s, D80, D90, D7000, D5000, D5100, D3000, Coolpix 8400, 8800, P6000, P7000, P7100, Nikon 1 J1/V1.
And because the intervalometer should be as tiny as possible I was using a Digispark to control everything. Continue reading →